11
Mar

Professional Photographic Services and Pricing - Cost vs Value

When I meet a potential new client, one of the first things that come up is, ‘How much for a picture of….?” The trouble is the question presupposes that photographs are a commodity, much like anything else on a supermarket shelf. Thus it then comes down to size and number of images. This is a common misconception. The reason for this is that the client is not just buying an “of the shelf” image, they are contracting or commissioning a project, one in which there are many variables that need to be established before the photographer even picks up the camera to shoot.

The Plumber

Now there are a number of analogies that might help to communicate this idea. One story I read somewhere was about a plumber who was hired to replace a tap washer. When the client reeled back at the $100.00 saying, “Come on that only took five minutes and I know that washer doesn’t cost that much!” The plumber responded with, “$1.50 for the washer, $23.50 for the time it took, and $75.00 for having the tools and knowing how to use them to get the job done and do it right the first time.”

Money Up Front

Another analogy is to look at your lawyer, accountant, financial advisor, or even doctor. When you walk into their office, does it look like a supermarket, with aisles and shelves and their various products with set prices on display?

The reason for this is that each client has a different need, while the generic process might be similar from client to client, the actual details are vastly different, thus in order to provide their services, the service has to be tailored, to the best of their skill and ability, to the needs of the client. This requires, more often than not, an initial consultation to examine the basics and to rough out an estimation of cost. For many of these professionals, even the initial consultation has a fee. More often than not, you may not get to see them until you’ve paid, money up front.

Photography

When you commission a professional photographer to take photos for you, the process is very similar. You may find that the photographer may be a ‘Jack of all trades’ and shoot more or less any project that comes through the door; or, they may specialise in one or a few similarly related areas.

Also, like with lawyers, doctors and accountants, you may be instructed to accept certain restrictions as part of the provision of their service, photography is no different. How you intend to use a particular image is an integral element to establishing the overall cost of your particular project.

A professional photographer, may in the end, spend perhaps five or less minutes taking just one shot, but that’s only one small part of the entire process. Let’s consider the following comparison.

A Visit to the Doctor

The initial consultation could be considered to be a bit like a visit to your doctor. You make an appointment, you talk to the doctor, who asks a bunch of questions and may do a brief examination. Let’s say you have an ingrown wart that needs cutting out. His advice is to come back next week, when there’s an anaesthetist and a nurse present, and on the specific day, not to eat or anything for several hours beforehand. On the day, the nurse checks you out, asks a few questions and takes you to the surgery room. The anaesthetist asks a few questions and then jabs the wart with a local watches for a moment then disappears.

The doctor or a surgeon comes in cuts out the wart and then frosts the area with some liquid nitrogen, and walks away. The nurse finishes up, and you’re out the door. Total spent by the doctor doing surgery, perhaps five minutes. Coordinating the shebang, knowing what to do and how to do it, that’s what you paid for the assurance that they would help you with your problem in an effective and professional manner.

The cost to you, was perhaps a non-negotiable price that had to be paid up front, a few days of discomfort and pain, and some minor scaring; yet the value to you? Many years pain free, perhaps the ability to walk or run comfortably, or use your hands comfortably, etc, value that you may not immediately recognise, but later come to realise as time goes by.

Now, the Photographer

With photography you approach a photographer about a shoot you would like to commission. The photographer asks you various questions to ascertain what you wish to achieve with the shoot and how you’d like to use the images. The photographer may give you an estimate then and there; get back to you at some specified date; or suggest that you may need a second consultation in order to better assess the details of the shoot. Either way, from here on in, the photographer is, ‘on the clock’ if the project proceeds.

The photographer will research and plan an approach to your particular shoot, asses what specialised support may be needed, contact and book them for your project, organise equipment, and supplementary equipment hire, scout locations, assure studio availability or location access and transport for the equipment and crew. Coordinate the setup of the shoot, check the models, or product, or subject, as well as the current lighting situation, perhaps take some test shots to check everything is doing what the photographer expects, and, then do the actual shoot.

After shooting the photographer will ensure all film stock or digital media is secured and safe, arrange for the breakdown of the set, and start processing the images. When proofs are available the photographer will liaise with the client to check the proofs, make final image selections and then produce the end images that the client will receive.

The cost to you may be the exchange of an agreed amount for labour, equipment, ancillaries and usage rights. The value lies in how well those images communicate and deliver you intended to achieve.

Commissioning Someone Creative

The last point I’d like to make is that commissioning a photographer to create images for you is like commissioning an architect, web designer, image consultant, engineer, or artist. You may have a few ideas about your project, but in the end, you want someone with sufficient talent, knowledge, skill and experience, to help you realise your goal. You want them to use their intelligence and creativity to make your goal a reality. You are asking them to give life, energy and substance to your ideas, goals or project.

These are not commodities that you can buy of the shelf, they are not the kind of things that carry a set price tag, and they are not the things that can be delivered with a simple one time point and snap. If your ideas, goals, dreams or project can be satisfied in such a way, you don’t need a professional photographer; you need more fundamental input and communications support.

04
Feb

Adding Colour to a Snoot

It’s funny how one mulls over a perceived limitation with their equipment, wondering how it might be modified to achieve a particular result. Usually this involves lots of trial and error with several possible solutions until the simplest, most elegant and reasonable option amongst the solutions presents itself. This time it just dropped into place. Serendipity!

If you’ve been reading my posts then you will have seen that one of the accessories I have for the K-150A Studio Strobe is a snoot.

61mm outer dia. Honeycombed Snoot

I’ve got a couple of these and they’re great for hair lights and putting smallish spots of light on the background.

But if you look at the mouth of this snoot, it’s pretty big, furthermore there is no facility for affixing masks, or coloured gels. I could cut a shaped hole into a piece of paper and then bend that ‘round the end of the snoot and hold it in place with elastic bands, but I’d rather something more elegant looking.

Similarly, I could take some large coloured gels and tape them to the end to do the same thing, as there is nothing to retain circular pieces of gel, (well I was playing with 58mm and 62 mm circular colour filters,) in place, inside the snoot. What to do?

It was not a problem that I particularly wanted to deal with at the time. But in stepped a piece of unexpected luck. I was fiddling around with a 62 mm filter which had a 62-58mm step down ring attached to it. Whilst undoing the ring, and still holding onto the snoot – yes, doing several things at once, the filter slipped onto the end of the snoot, neatly onto it – A very mild, interferance fit - Nice!

So I took off the filter and replaced it with the step down ring, as most of my filters are 58mm. I thought, Should I glue this on with a bit of superglue?” whilst twisting it, threading it onto the end of the snoot. Now it doesn’t want to come off! Success! Eureka! And all that!

What this means is that I now have an elegant, pretty looking solution to adding colour filters to the snoot.

Modified Snoot, Stepdown ring and 58 mm Coloured Glass Filters

[Looks like a bought one! Doesn't it?]

Similarly, there are a variety of creative filters the can also be used as gobos in the same way.

It’s just occurred to me that with the use of a 58-58mm reversal ring, I could use my Tian Ya Adapter Ring to leverage the TianYa, Cokin-style, square filter system, which means , that the creative aspects of the Tian Ya, Lee, and/or Cokin filter systems are all fair game.

Postscript

The variations in the outer diameter of the snoots seems to be sufficient to require additional mounting assistance. My second snoot will require some superglue to mount the step down ring onto it, it’s not an interferance fit at all…  :-(

03
Feb

K-150A Strobe/Flash Unit

Recently I bought a Seconic L-308S Flashmate meter so that I could analyse my studio lights and get a better idea of just what they are doing as I use them. Today  I gave it a pretty good run so as to sort all the bit out and see whats what. Now, it’s pretty hard to find ANY info on this particular unit as it is Chinese made and usually badge manufactured, with slight variations. I found out about my set through a company on Ebay, and sadly can now no longer find them, but Joy of Joys! There is a shop here in Hanoi that carrieds them and most of the accessories, so I bought a protable 3 light studio kit.
This is what the Sekonic and the K-150A look like.
Sekonic L-308S Flashmate Light MeterK-150A Studio Strobe
1: Specifications

Model

Power

Rating

Guide Number

(ISO 100)

Brightness

Power Control

Flash

Time

Recycle

Time

Colour

Temp.

Model

Light

Fuse

K-150A

150Ws

56*

431 Cd/m2

1/8 – 1/1

Stepless

1/1000

To

1/600

0.5 – 3.0

Seconds

5600K

To

5800K

50Ws

5A

Most of this info was cobbled together from several sources, including an online calculator for the Brightness factor.

2. Power Output

The K-150A has a 4 stop range which is adjusted by a stepless power dial with 13 divisions marked on the body of the unit. Subject distance was 2 meters and exposure readings were measured using a Sekonic L-308S Flashmate, set to ISO 100 & 1/60 sec, Flash w/Cord.

Power Adjustment

Divisional Range

EV

F/Stop

Min – 3

9

2.8

4 – 10

10

4.0

11 – 12

11

5.6

Max

12

8

Next, the subject distance was varied and exposure readings were again measured using a Sekonic L-308S  Flashmate, set to ISO 100 & 1/60 sec, Flash w/Cord.

Distance

Flash to Subject

F/Stop

1 m

16

2 m

8

3 m/10’

5.6

4 m

4

* Guide Number, GN = f/stop x distance; thus GN = 10’ x 5.6 = 56

3. Impact of Modifier on Output

Subject distance was 2 meters and exposure readings were measured using a Sekonic L-308S Flashmate, set to ISO 100 & 1/60 sec, Flash w/Cord. I placed each modifier on the K-150A and then took a measurement.

Modifier

F/Stop

Modifier

F/Stop

Bare

8.0

White Gel

5.69

Honeycomb

5.64

Yellow Gel

5.67

Snoot

4.07

Blue Gel

2.0

Softbox 70cm x 50cm - Open

8.0

Red Gel

1.4

Softbox 70cm x 50cm - open w/baffle

8.0

Silver Umbrella

8.0

Softbox 70cm x 50cm - Closed

5.64

White Umbrella

4.09

Softbox 70cm x 50cm - Closed w/baffle

5.61

White Shoot Through

5.6

Below are a few shots of the gear. The last image was ‘borrowed’ from the net.

Shoot Through UmbrellaSilver Umbrella

DIY Beauty Dish

Snoot

Open SoftboxClosed Softbox

K-150A Barndoor, Snoot & Filter Set

4. Relationship between EV and GN

In the process of chasing down all this info and trying to make sense of it all, I ran into, again, the Guide Number issue and people trying to relate it to Strobe Output - apparently it doesn’t work because globes and reflectors are all shaped differently. Now, I found the following formulae and the only thing that might even be remotely interesting is relating Guide Number to Exposure Value. After doing the math, and from what I’ve been able to gather, the K-150A Studio Strobe puts out light that’s, more or less, the equivalent of a moderately cloudy/overcast day.  Anyway, here’s some formulaic jiggery-pokery, for those who are interested.

GN = f-stop x dist.

EV = log2(f-stop/time)

Substituting for f-stop, we get

GN = dist. x (time x 2EV)0.5

Similarly,

EV = log2[((GN/dist.)2)/time]

30
Jan

Digital Black and White - A question of style

Ever since film started going the way of the Dodo, the concept of digital Black and White [dB&W] has been vexatious and fraught with, frequently, somewhat pointless debate, as no one seems to be able to agree on the terms of reference or the mutually recognised base from which to launch into meaningful debate.

As is well known, film based black and white photography is rank with BS about, which emulsion, which format, which cameras and which lenses, which filters, which developer, cross processing, pushing, pulling, which paper, which size, which matting, and so forth. Discussions about dB&W are no less pure, especially when it comes to emulating the look of film.

This morning I came across the following discussion on flickr and put my two cents worth in.  Before I share some erudite ruminations, and this brilliant expose as a result, let me add just a bit more to the mix.

Digital Filters

I normally use Lightroom 2.3 and only resort to something like CS3 when the image or the creative demands are such that it ‘really’ needs it.  So from my perspective, I look at the myriad of “Photoshop” filters as a means of finding a solution that might be protable to Lightroom.

Today, that’s not what I’ve done.

Today I thought, maybe I should actually play around with these a bit more, in CS3, and see what I can show for it, but before we explore those results, lets set a baseline of comparative understanding.

Black & White Corrective, Dramatic & Portraiture Filters

First let’s look at the filters in question and what they are used for in Black and White Photography:

Corrective

First off, is the “Corrective Filter” - light yellow. According to Fabian K. Beal,A.R.P.S in Photography Explained, “… silver halides have a greater affinity for light from the blue end of the spectrum… To counter this a light yellow filter is placed over the lens. This will result in the correct tonal balance being applied to the negative.”

Hoya K2 (Yellow)

Hoya K2 (Yellow)

“Especially useful for clear contrast between blue sky with clouds and foreground. Provides a natural tonal rendition. Often used for subjects at intermediate distances.”

Dramatic

Next are the “Dramatic Filters” - Orange, Red, Dark Yellow (Not shown here). This is what Mr. Beal has to say, “Yellow will darken blue the least, while Red has the greatest effect… with these filters some darkening of green foliage will result… efficiency of these filters is proportional to the amount of blue… in either sky or sea…should never be used in portraiture of fair skinned people… effect of rendering skin tones light and chalky.”

Hoya G (Orange)

Hoya G (Orange)

Hoya 25A (Red)

Hoya 25A (Red)

According to Hoya, the G (Orange) filter, “Increases contrast between reds and yellows. Particularly useful for distant outdoor shots taken with a telephoto lens,” and for the 25A (Red) Filter its, “Especially effective for increasing contrast. Ideal for dramatic cloud effects in landscapes.”

Portrait

This brings us to the third set we wish to consider and these are the Portraiture Filters - Yellow Green, and Green.

According to Hoya, the Xo (Yellow Green) Filter is, “Used primarily for black and white photography. XO is highly effective for outdoor portraits because red is rendered dark while green appears lighter,” and the X1 (Green) Filter is, “Great for correcting skin tones, bringing out facial expressions in close-ups and emphasizing the feeling of liveliness. X1 is highly effective for indoor portraits under tungsten lighting.”

Hoya XO (Yellow Green)

Hoya X0 (Yellow Green)

Hoya X1 (Green)

Hoya X1 (Green)

Beal puts it more generally, “has the effect of darkening skin tones, to give a healthy suntanned look to the face, and is especially useful for portraiture in open shade… also regarded as a corrective filter for… tungsten light.”

Playing with Digital Filters

Now with that out of the way, i.e. we know what these filters are supposed to do to black and white emulsion, I thought I’d start with the Opanda PhotoFilters, a free set of standalone filters that allow you to simulate the effect of using either Kodak, Cokin or Hoya numbered filters on an image. One thing to bear in mind here is that these filters originally allowed the emulsion to correctly respond to the available light ina somewhat controlled manner. Applying filtering in post production to a colour image and then converting it to black and White is a very different kettle of fish.

Ok, so I thought I’d play with the green filter because of it’s so called beneficial effect on skin tones, I call from some ancient readings, that it also helps to make red lipstick look dark in Black and White prints, and for this purpose it’s better to use dark brown toned lipsticks for a ‘more realistic’ effect. The original image here is strong in yellow tones, and has some difficult tonality issues between the wall and the skin tone. One of the key things to look for in all subsequent images, here, is the colour of the lipstick:

Opanda Filters + CS3 B&W Conversion

Original image sourced from Asian Babe of the Month, 1997.10

I also played with colour correcting the “tungsten” look of the original and see what the effect was when processed via CS3’s Black and White Adjustment Set. From this my personal preference would be the bottom right picture as a faithful rendition of the original particularly with regards to the lighting.

This got me thinking about the whole conversion process so I thought I’d run the same image through each of CS3’s Black and White Adjustment set and see what they actually do on their defaults.

CS3's B&W Adjustment Presets

Original image sourced from Asian Babe of the Month, 1997.10

Wow! Pretty wild huh?

B&W Processing - From Colour to Greyscale

At this point I plunged head first into an ongoing dilemma regarding dB&W processing.

:- Which effect should I strive for?

:- Should I emulate a particular film?

:- If so, which one?

The answers to these questions dictate the dB&W conversion settings that should be used.

To wit, as oskarpall says in the abovementioned thread:

“…channel mixer, tick monochrome and simply put those numbers in:

Agfa 200X: 18,41,41
Agfapan 25: 25,39,36
Agfapan 100: 21,40,39
Agfapan 400: 20,41,39

Ilford Delta 100: 21,42,37
Ilford Delta 400: 22,42,36
Ilford Delta 400 Pro: 31,36,33

Ilford FP4: 28,41,31
Ilford HP5: 23,37,40
Ilford Pan F: 33,36,31
Ilford SFX: 36,31,33
Ilford XP2 Super: 21,42,37

Kodak Tmax 100: 24,37,39
Kodak Tmax 400: 27,36,37
Kodak Tri-X: 25,35,40″

Yet it is more than that.

Emulation

There is no point in emulating an emulsion unless you plan on printing the emulation it to celluloid and then examining it under a loupe!

So what then? Emulate the look of a fave photographer?

This is not without merit, as many photographers, shot in a particular way, using favoured camera settings, glassware, filters, type/format of film, as well as processing the negatives more-or-less in the same chemicals, finally printing out using the same enlarger and optics/filters onto pretty much the same hardness of paper which was then developed in their own normal manner.

What it means, is that the myriad number of variables involved in trying to emulate a particular type of film is narrowed down to emulating the photographic process of a particular photographer, i.e. their particular style.

Problems with emulation

Recently I read an article on filters which rubbished digital printing as being inferior to silver prints, with respect to 4×5 format imaging, stating that the 3 dimensionality typical of an Adams landscape cannot be reproduced/emulated any other way, even though great strides are being made in carbon prints, and Ilford offer a digital to film printing service. In other words, digital emulators beware, the look is dependent on the final medium being used to display the image!

So where does that leave us, now?

I think we need to re-evaluate our base assumptions in this whole process and quest to perfect dB&W. First I think we need to simplify our camera settings options.

Examples

Let me give some examples - shutter speeds:

:- Asahi-Pentax SP1000 SLR: B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, and 1/1000, which was a fairly typical range for a 35mm camera of its time (40 odd years ago);

:- Seagull 4BI TLR: B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30,1/ 60, 1/125, and 1/300, which is a typical range for an older, mid-format, TLR camera;

:- Canon EOS 400D dSLR: B, 30″, 25″, 20″, 15″, 13″, 10″, 8″, 6″, 5″, 4″, 3″2, 2″5, 2″, 1″6, 1″3, 1″, 0″8, 0″6, 0″5, 0″4, 0″3, 1/4, 1/5, 1/6, 1/8, 1/10, 1/13, 1/15, 1/20, 1/25, 1/30, 1/40, 1/50, 1/60, 1/80, 1/100, 1/125, 1/160, 1/200, 1/250, 1/320, 1/400, 1/500, 1/640, 1/800, 1/100, 1/1250, 1/1600, 1/2000, 1/2500, 1/3200, and 1/4000 which is fairly typical of a modern dSLR camera.

There are a lot of shutter settings to choose from, huh?

Some more examples, aperture settings:

:- Seagull 4BI TLR, Haiou SA-85 75mm fixed lens: 22, 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 3.5

:- Asahi-Pentax SP1000 SLR, Super-Takumar 55mm M42 Mount Lens: 16, 11, 8, 5.6, 4, 2.8, 2 with half stop increments

:- Canon EOS 400D dSLR, Canon EF 50mm II, EF mount Lens: 22, 20, 18, 16, 14, 13, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7.1, 6.3, 5.6, 5, 4.5, 4, 3.5, 3.2, 2.8, 2.5, 2.2, 2, 1.8

Practicalities and Considerations

If one wants to emulate an old master, then as a starting point we need to understand what the setting limitations were for their particular camera of choice and the film stock they chose to shoot as well as any filters that may have been used, this dictates the exposure options available at the time of the shot. From there we need to understand the processing options that were available for adjusting the emulsion density, contrast, and grain, after this, we need to consider what touching up, cropping, dodging, burning, and  masking considerations usually took place followed by print development considerations such as  print density and specialty print techniques that might have been used.

In digital terms, this means restricting the shutter and aperture settings that we use, selecting an appropriate ISO level, post capture sharpening & noise reduction, exposure balancing in RAW, subtractive colour processing, selective colour treatments, black and white conversion, exposure adjustment, curves adjustment, contrast tweaking, output selection/format size/compression-enlargement algorithm, output sharpening, printer inks, paper choice. Of course, before any of this can be done predictably, you’ll need a camera profile, screen calibration, printer profile and ink-paper calibration data.

This all presumes that you ‘actually want to’ emulate the ‘look’ of silver gelatine prints in the first place!

dB&W as a medium in its own right!

But what about digital, as a medium in it’s own right? Is it possible to ‘break away’ from the restraints of the past, the anchors that dictate that a black and white print should look, thus…? Is there any merit to this digital medium that is worthy of holding up in its own right and saying that here is a medium that has it’s own aesthetic, an aesthetic that is equally valid in its own right? I think there is.

Today’s digital cameras give us far more options and control possibilities that never existed for some of the ‘great’ masters. to capitalise on that, we need to fundamentally understand the medium which is the major form of presentation for our images. Are we shooting for screen (web), for newsprint, for glossy magazines, or for poster-sized prints to be hung on some gallery wall? What are the restraints and limitations for each of these display media, and how does that dictate what we must do, behind the lens, and in front of the screen, to make it so?

I’m not advocating that we ignore or abandon the past, there is much we can learn for the skilled expression of past masters, and in the field of film emulation there is much still to be understood and achieved, if we wish to successfully emulate the depth and beauty of some combinations of silver-based emulsion and print (and other archaic/specialty methodologies, e.g. litmus, cyanotype, etc.) However, I don’t believe we should hanker after the past either. dB&W is a rapidly developing medium which in it’s growing popularity will need camera manufacturers to support it especially in the area of sensor technology.

Would that it were possible, within-camera, to capture not only the UV-RGB-IR data in a scene, but also a luminance  map as well, perhaps call it UV-CMYK-IR. Why? Because CCD’s are already sensitive to such radiation and it allows us to see the world in a whole new light. It makes possible the ability to develop a truly modern dB&W Style. It expands our minds, our creativity, and our love for the beauty that exists in this world.

For the Beauty!

18
Jan

Presetting Lightroom’s 180+ Free Presets Collection

Recently, on Flickr in the Presetting Lightroom Group, I started collating a list of all the presets that had been offered or recomended to members of the group. Some of this involved tracking down original sites now long archived, contacting the authors where links were broken or no longer available, converting from text into actual usable files where only the code was posted, and so on. All in all, it was an intensive peice of work which took the better part of several days.

On completion I handed it over to Markus of Profifotos.com who carried out the enormous task of sorting and compiling before and after photos for the “best” of each preset offering. That task has now been completed, resulting in 180+ Free Lightroom Presets. I must say, Markus has done a fantastic job of selecting the best and pairing them with a good image that shows the potential of each preset.

If you haven’t tried out some of these presets, do so. If you’d like to browse and download them get them here. If you have any presets you’d like to share with an active and vibrant community then come on over to Presetting Lightroom and join in the fun.

17
Jan

Bored at Home - Fantasies of a Domestic Engineer

This morning, I had the great fortune to observe the work of Angie Vu Ha, a lovely, angel of a Vietnamese model, based in Singapore. She was on a short trip to do a couple of shoots here in Hanoi, and was doing some exchange work with Hanoi-based photographer Zenith Nguyen. Zenith approached me to discuss the possibility of  a collaborative project shot in my studio and around my home.

After a brief consultation with her, to discuss her ideas and a possible theme, we set up today’s shoot. I assisted primarily with setting up lighting, and clearing locations of any obviously distracting backgrounds, and I got to take a few shots as well.  We were admirably assisted by Kunming-based makeup artist, Thao Phuong Doan who was wonderfully attentive, observant and supportive of both the model and the photographers.

Most of the time we roamed around my home trying out different scenarios and seing what came up, with regard to suitable lighting, setting, and ease of work. I didn’t plan on shooting any IR but at the end of the session, more as a last minute aside, I managed to engage Angie in the following mini-shoot. It was a fun, impromtu occurrence yet, intuitively shaped by the general theme that we were running with today.

The theme of the morning could best be described as, “Bored at Home - Fantasies of a Domestic Engineer*”

100_5614

100_5611

100_5615

What appeals to me about these images, is the way they seem to invite introspection, through the use of  high grain, low contrast  as a way of exploring form, emotion, and movement. Whilst the series was impromtu in nature, these images speak to the theme of this morning’s endevours. They draw attention to, and focus on, the intimacy of Angie’s actions as though one were intimately sharing, in this private moment.

*For those who don’t know the reference, a “Domestic Engineer” was a label coined some time ago to describe the professional-like skills neccessary to be an independent, self-sufficient, effective housewife.

15
Jan

Why are you in business?

The other night I was out having a drink at a favourite watering hole when I happened across the magazine, “Gourmet Vietnam.” I had recently done some property shots for a client who was being featured in the magazine, so I was very interested in seeing the published images. I looked up the entries for my client, and no shots – “oh well, they didn’t eventually get used…” or so I thought. So I leafed through the magazine and, “lo and behold” there they are, illustrating “Casa Habana” at Park Hyatt Saigon Hotel! When I mentioned this to my friend, the reply was, “At least you got published.”

Now, to some extent I feel a little bad for my client, seeing their distinctive interior being associated with some other commercial group in another city. For me, it’s a mis-appropriated image being used outside its terms of usage, a copyright violation. My client is not happy, and I’m saddened, it’s not a good result but, “what to do?”

This incident got me thinking about the reason as to why I am in this business and a number of challenges that I’m facing as a photographer, a working, “trying to make a living as a professional” photographer.

At Common Cents, Mark Loundy wrote,

A poster on Craigslist was looking for workers to perform a number of tasks around his house. By way of payment he offered: “Of course there will be no pay involved. In return for your services you will get FULL CREDIT on my Web site, AND you can add all of this work to your PORTFOLIO! If you ask me, this is an absolutely awesome deal!”

This really made me laugh, but it gets to the heart of an issue of being paid and treated fairly for the work I put into making an image and it IS work! It takes time to discuss a client’s image needs, it takes time and energy to go out an satisfy those needs AND it take time and effort to sort, select, cleanup, crop, and resize  images, then to deliver them in a timely manner ready for the client to use.

The trouble is many potential clients don’t see it that way. Apparently, all I have to do is just wave my camera in the general direction, download it and it’s done. Or you get phrases like, “there’s no budget for this, but we’ll credit you” or, “our policy is to only pay so much per image, take it or leave it” or, “you got to do something for free for us first” as a suggestion of (indefinite) future work; as justifications as to why they can’t or won’t offer fair and reasonable consideration, or payment.

As Debra Weiss intimates in her article on “The Value of Photography,”  my images do have value to the client, whether for personal or organisational promotion. Now, I DO understand that any business that wants to make money, needs to minimise its expenses and maximize inward value but, I have yet to find it stated anywhere that, as a photographer, it is my solemn responsibility to subsidise some else’s business at the expense of my own. Furthermore, some potential clients have left me feeling that it is their “God-given right” to take my work for their, free and unlimited use, for however long they chose to do so.

In a similar vein, Tear Sheets are the currency of a working photographer. They are the proof that the photographer has been published, and that some organisation felt that the photographer’s work was illustrative of the message the organisation wanted to communicate. With magazines, this is usually story accompaniment and illustration. With advertising, it’s often a core element in the visual-emotional-style appeal, the non-intellectual element. With websites, catalogues, tradeshow promotional materials, the images are central to communicating what the business is all about.

As such, correct attribution is essential to validating that the photographer actually did the work. It is like a tangible, visual job reference, a marker of success at a given task. So when photos are mis-attributed, the photographer is left with nothing of value to prove they were the photographer, nothing of value that the photographer can use for promoting and documenting their work. This is theft of recognition. Similarly, when an image is mis-appropriated both the client and the photographer lose out.

The client may be able to get recompense from the publisher for screwing up a review however; there is nothing to correct the promotional opportunity loss for the photographer. Unfortunately, annual publications rarely print corrections and many smaller monthlies simply don’t have the space, “it’s just a photo,” “you got published, didn’t you?” “You got paid, where’s the problem?”

So, “what to do?”

When starting out, the first tear sheet is like a gift from God, it is the, “Hey! I finally got published!” piece of proof that affirms a sense of personal achievement. As one builds a photographic career a tear sheet, even more so than payment, it is the final, essential feedback that confirms the job was done and done right. Once established as a pro photographer, tear sheets become the body of evidence, which confirms the influence and impact of the photographer within their particular genre.

This discussion, round a bout that it is, is really about the perceived value of the freelance photographer’s work. Like an business owner, the freelance has overheads, capital expenditure, and running costs to cover these are all factored into their Cost of Doing Business calculations. On top of this they have to select a modest income, based on what the community in which they work can sustain. The staff photographer, often has their equipment supplied and doesn’t carry the costs of maintaining an office, equipment or associated travel expenses, as such the ‘cost per photo’ equation is not the same – it’s not even the same equation.

Each industry has its margins, in garment production, sourcing can be as little as 3-5% yet for retail it can vary between 200-400%. Different industries have their ‘Gold Standard’ for which to aim, in order to have a health, growing business which sustains itself, the business owner(s) and the community in which they flourish. The optimal percentage for studio-based Photography is around 35%.

I’m in this business because it is something I love and enjoy, thoroughly. I’m in this business to affirm my skills and abilities as a creative individual, who crafts targeted images which enhance and build the reputation and credibility of my clients. I’m in this business to create a long term, viable and sustainable future for myself and my family. I’m in this business to affirm, through my images, the growth, development and prosperity of the communities in which I live.

13
Jan

Struggling with Presetting Kodak HIE

I’ve been really struggling with my IR B&W work.It’s an area that is fraught with frustration.

For a while I thought I’d chace the HIE tail and see where that lead me. I developed what I think is a pretty good preset, suitable for Asian climes whre skies tend to be more whitish than blue. This is sort of what I was  having to deal with, Asian Skies, Kodak HIE_0029 by Heronop, and part of my quest was for a low grain/noise look with smooth graduations in the mid-grey tones. While I thought I’d succeded somewhat with that, I wasn’t satisfied. I didn’t realise until just recently that HIE could be somewhat grainy in appearance, until I found this, Fraser (Kodak HIE) by I am Martin but, the black sky kept bugging me, especially in light of such images, Untitled and Just follow the path by Xprocessed. Similarly, trying to eliminate as much noise as possible to have rich smooth black tones, EPSN1252 BN-Kodak HIE by Claudio Tizzani, as well as gorgeous mid-grey graduations, like in .life.is.but.a.dream. by Cassandi.

Looking back on it all now, it’s a bit much to expect from a single preset as each of these situations have very clear and distinct features not typical of the other pictures.

One of the reasons for this is the type of filter used. Another is the quality of the optics, and a third is they way in which the film was developed and then printed.

I moved from using overexposed, developed, colour print film to using a peice of floppy disk. There were several reasons for this,
1) finger prints and dust
2) scratches -from in-camera movement

3) uneven emulsion effects (Check out the following image)
Digital Infrared (filtered)
The plus side of film was that it produced monotone images.
Infrared with Kodak Z700
With the floppy disk I started getting some wierd colour effects. Ice would turn an orange colour, certain dark/black clothing was rendered as a kinda lilac colour and the rest of the image had a pale magenta-like cast. With the floppy disk, the camera is also noticiably much slower.

Infrared Ice Black Top in Infrared
Another point which was starting to dawn on me, was that even though I could use my camera in manual, and set some exposure compensation, It didn’t seem that I was getting similar exposure lattitude. Perhaps it’s the camera/filter combination, perhaps it’s an artifact of the environment here in Hanoi, and perhaps it’s me, but it’s like trying to compare fresh baked bread with three day old fish. The whole thing was starting to get right up my nose.

So, back to the drawing board. Now, before getting to the board, I thought I’d go over several other presets and have a look if anyone had done something that might just work for me USING a digital IR image as the source image for conversion, as opposed to trying to emulate the look by starting out with a colour pic.

So, here it is:
The original image straight from the camera [all images square cropped]
Portrait: Thao Phuong Doan
I then applied LR’s greyscale conversion to it.

Greyscale

Ok, something new, alright, auto WB + auto tone
auto wb, auto tone
Hmmm, Someone once suggested shifting the colour temp to around 2000K for correct WB. In LR that’s equivalent to a Temp shift to -100
auto wb, auto tone, temp-100
Well, it looks really blue. (There’s an idea for a cyanotype emulation…)

To do a reasonably fair comparison of the various presets, I settled on the following baseline for all processes, Square crop, auto wb, auto tone then temp to -100. A preset was applied to the image, the image exported, 600 px, 80%, 72 ppi, no sharpening. After this the image was reverted to the base line and the next preset was applied, and so on and so forth.

Now, I’m not actually gonna comment on these because I din’t actually dialogue this with myself but went more for the intuitive feel. Look at each of these and make your own minds up.

01. Colour IR - COL Colour Infrared
col colour infrared
02. Colour R72 IR - IR-Colour 1
ir colour 1
03. Colour R72 IR - IR-Colour 2
ir colour 2
04. GAntico - GA-B&W infrared 01
ga - bw infrared 01
05. Infrared - B&W IR1
b&w ir 1
06. MikeyG’s Kodak HIE - Kodak HIE
mikeyg's kodak hie
07. MikeyG’s Kodak HIE - Kodak HIE Auto
mikeyg's kodak hie auto
08. MikeyG’s Kodak HIE - Kodak HIE Curve
mikeyg's kodak hie curve
09. MikeyG’s Konica IR - Konica IR

mikeyg's konica ir
10. MikeyG’s Konica IR - Konica IR Auto

mikeyg's konica ir auto
11. MikeyG’s Konica IR - Konica IR Curve
mikeyg's konica ir curve
12. Seim Free B&W - Seim Infrared Warm II
seim infrared warm ii
13. Tsc Tempest Z700 IR - Tsc’s Kodak HIE Auto (This one’s mine)
tscs-kodak-hie-auto
14. x=Brandon+Oelling - x=infra+ready
x=infra+ready

Now here’s the problem that I have. As far as I understand it, all of these presets, bar one, were designed to work with full colour images. The difficulty with doing that is that the most successful emulators work in Photoshop Swapping and blending RGB channels with a greyscale, “K” channel yet Lightroom doesn’t have that capability So channel swapping is out of the question. Yet there may seem to be some interesting avenues worthy of further exploration in the HSL/Color/Grayscale panel.

Ok, so I can’t channel swap, well… I don’t really need to, do I? All my images that I wish to process this way are IR source images in the first place.Do I want to still struggle and try to emulate the HIE look? Well, I’m no longer sure about that, particularly for the following reasons: noise free blacks, smooth greys, good contrast, low grain in low contrast shots, clean and crisp white foliage. This is what I’m aiming for. Is that the HIE look? Well, yes and no. It depends on how it was handled, shot, developed and printed.

Back to the drawingboard. What I want is to first and foremost, get good shots out of my camera. Now, most would say, replace the camera. I’m a firm believer of working with what you’ve got, until your skill level clearly excedes the capacity of the equipment to deliver on what you want to achieve.

So here’s the drawingboard with the changes, from scratch that I made, working on the same original image as above.

ISO 400 6mm
Greyscale
Temp +100
Tint -5
Exposure +0.86
Recovery 74
Fill Light 13
Blacks 24
Brightness +61
Contrast 0
Clarity -21
Greyscale Mix Auto + Blue & Aqua -100
Lens Correction +100
Midpoint 73
Postcrop amount +64
Midpoint 50
roundness -64
Feather 100
Profile Embeded
Shadows 0
Red Primary Hue/Saturation +100
Green Primary Hue/Saturation +100
Blue Primary Hue +100 Saturation -100

Here’s the result.
tscs-kodak-z700fd

I’m still not happy with the level of grain, but it’s certainly within the ballpark now, if we compare with “I am Martin’s” image (above). There’s still room for improvement in this I think, but I’m too tired to pursue it further today. Anyway, that’s all for now.

11
Jan

And the Winner is…

Announcing the winner of the “Art of Food Photgraphy Class” competion:
White on Rice Couple’s Blog

‘And the winner is?

Wawawawawa!

…. it’s not me  {sob}

Lol, have a great day.

03
Jan

Giveaway - Online “Art of Food Photography Class” !!!

I just came across a reference to this and thought, “Wow, what a great idea.” So I thought I’d leave a comment and make a note of it here.

I was reading at White on Rice Couple’s blog about this:

Giveaway - Online “Art of Food Photography Class” !!!

and this is some of what they say about the organising group.


“The Picture Perfect School of Photography offers online photography classes ranging from photography in Food, Fashion, Nature, Photojournalism, Pets, Travel and SO MUCH MORE! They’re fabulous array of photography classes and incredible line up of professional instructors show how serious they about teaching YOU to learn and improve your photography skills.”


And here is the bit about how to enter.

Giveaway Details:
*This giveaway is open to everyone!! Including International (outside USA)!

The “Art Of Food Photography” class can be taken right in the comfort of your own home and kitchen! How often do we all want to take a class, but can’t find the time to get out of the house to attend a class? Well, this online class is so perfect and easy to take.


One lucky winner will get a spot in the class. It’s open to anyone who has  computer, internet service, a Digital SLR camera, some food and desire to improve your photography skills! The winner will be selected from the Random Number Generator and announced on Wednesday, January 7 by 5pm, Western Time.


The class starts on Friday, January 9th! This class is also offered on a monthly basis. Future dates TBA.

Just leave your comment [at White on Rice Couple's Blog] to enter this amazing class giveaway!





Tsc Tempest Photography

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